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| Catherine Deneuve in Belle du Jour |
Well I wanted to ask your opinion (or advice) because I'm having a hard time with the fact that before (Study Abroad '08) when old men would give me lewd looks I just chalked it up to fetishism/being old. (Now living here till '08.) One day I told my boyfriend about one such brazen old man who actually invited me out for coffee so I simply turned him down, but nicely. My boyfriend was INFURIATED and explained that if someone approaches me like that on the street it's because they a. think I'm a prostitute, or, b. think I'm looking for Spanish citizenship (a passport prostitute). This was my first time ever hearing anything of the sort. After more convo he pretty much told me that most African women here are prostitutes and I a m having a REAL issue dealing wig that because obvi black=African here and it bothers the shit out of me that my friends (white) can be mistaken for bay and everything, including Spanish, and I AUTOMATICALLY have to be an African prostitute. Now this isn't the case ALL the time, when I go out and stuff--a prostitute isn't going to be in bars drinking and dancing it up like I am every Thursday-Sat). They mostly think I'm Dominican because I speak Spanish. But it bothers me a lot walking through the streets, being on the bus, and wondering if the guy next to me would like to pay me to blow him (graphic, I know, but I've read your blog and I know you'd appreciate it :-)). I guess my question. Is, how would you deal with it?
I know that I just have to kinda wander around and not worry about what people think but it's kinda lonely sometimes when all the Españoles may or may not think you're a prostitute and the Africans give you dirty looks, for one, that hair...get a perm! And two, "who does she think she is?" I know you have way more experience dealing with this than I do so I thought, why not reach out?Nedra, I love you. And though it's taken me about 3 months to answer it, I love this question. Let's start with a true little ditty set in the South of Spain, cerca last year. Seville to be precise.
So, I'm walking from a dinner party to an Irish pub with a big group of artist friends. I've fallen into conversation with a rather famous artist; trained in France, works hanging in every major museum in Europe, residences in South of France and all over South America. He is major. And I've been trying to get next to him--for an interview!--for days. So we're walking through the city center, past this cathedral and that palace. And we do that dance groups in motion do, flowing in and out of conversation with one person or another, falling in and out of step with one person or another. Finally, I end up side-by-side with Brilliant Spanish Artist Man. He's short, bald, pot bellied and kinda liquored up, but his brilliance doesn't disappoint.
I should have known what was up when he said, "Stop. Look at the moon."
But what came next was the give away--
"This reminds me of that poem by Gabriel Garcia Lorca, where a little boy tells the moon, Si vinieran a los gitanos, harían con tu corazón collares y anillos blancos..."
I'm so geeked out by this point, I'm that kiss ass co-ed in the front of the class with her hand up, totally missing the signs--
"If the gypsies came they'd make white jewels of you, love... from Romance de La Luna, no?"
He slips his arm through mine. He's a little drunk so I let it slide, but soon realize that we've lost sight of the rest of the group. Just as we're nearing the hotel, he stops me again, stands directly in front of me and puts his hands on my face.
"What're you doing?"
"Just a kiss."
"I don't think so."
The next morning, at breakfast, I tell KK, a children's book author and good friend. "No he didn't!", she says. "Unfortunately, yes. He ruined everything. And now he's looking at me like I pissed on his paint set." Who did he think he was? Did he think just because I'm black that I'd be easier than, say, my friend?
A few nights later, we meet up with another artist woman. White, from the Basque region of Spain, and knows the whole crew. KK insists I tell Basque Artist Girl the story of Brilliant Spanish Artist Man.
"Girl, you know he tried to kiss me...", I venture.
Basque Artist Girl's response is one for the ages---
"Did he quote Lorca to you, too? I don't know why he thought that would work on me..."
Moral of the story: MEN ARE NASTY. Sometimes they try it on with you not because your black, but because THAT'S WHAT THEY DO.
Don't take this no kinda way, but your man's gonna have to mellow the fuck out.
You're living together, all up in the fam, and so far he has ante'd up. Seems like a good solid dude. But I'm confused... Why exactly he is infuriated? Because men approach you for coffee or because he thinks they think you're a prostitute? That's a long mental road to pissed off. Not to mention, it seems his reaction has triggered your anxieties. No bueno. When the shit hits the abanico, somebody's gotta keep a cool head. I mean, do his male relatives think you're a prostitute? Did he think you were a prostitute when you met? No? Then it's impossible that all Spanish men think this way. Tell him to save that fire for when something really happens, like in the Catskills 5 years ago with my ex, the Genovese, when the B&B owner refused to shake my hand...
As an interracial couple, you will be a target. And this race thing is janky enough without him being "infuriated!" about what he thinks men are thinking when they approach you when he isn't even around.
Furthermore, don't stifle yourself. You obviously already get that you do have to "sort of wander around and not worry about what other people think". But there's more to it. It's none of your business what they think. It only matters how you feel, then, what you do.
In case you missed it, that was your permission to react. Careful not to overreact, but if you're feeling belittled, offended, or insulted by an invitation to coffee, it's perfectly okay (even necessary) to let it out. Blow off some steam. I like to let folks know who they're dealing with.
For example, a street conversation with an undesirable could go like this:
"Quieres tomar algo?" (Wanna get a drink?)
"NO. NO I DON'T."
or like this..
"Quieres tomar algo?"
"I'M SORRY, WHAT? HOW CAN I HELP YOU?"
Take their African prostitute and raise them an Annoying American. Cool that you speak perfect Spanish, but that can work against you. The language you speak often says more than what you're actually saying...feel me?
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| Of course they're gonna holler. Can you blame 'em? |
In Barcelona, I'm lucky to have my group of sisters. A nation of millions, we're not, but it's a great comfort to have people who can chop it up on it means to be black in Spain. Besides Madrid, the rest of Spain is not so mixed. You simply may not have the raw material to weave this type of net. Still, there are things you can do.
I say, don't underestimate your American friends. Maybe they don't have the same views or experiences as you do as an expat, but I find that my white American friends are more likely to talk about race abroad, than I imagine they'd be at home. Perhaps because racism in Spain doesn't implicate them, most at least lend a sympathetic ear. Perhaps it's because they, too, are misunderstood and stereotyped abroad. If you've got very close friends here, trust them. It may take your friendship to deeper level. Or they may hate you for making them uncomfortable. In which case, I'll accept full responsibility for being wrong as the day is long...
Are you absolutely sure you're the only black American woman living in Malaga? Maybe there are some Frenchies or black English girls living in Malaga? They may be alone, asking themselves the same questions, looking for the same type of solace. Find them. Check the Black Women In Europe Social Network. Send out an Internet APB. Something...
Let's start here: Anyone know a black woman who's not a prostitute living in or soon moving to, Malaga?
And for the record, because this post just isn't long enough, I wouldn't worry about what the actual prostitutes are thinking either. They've got much bigger issues to deal with than your hair.


18 comments:
Excellent response.
I just had a conversation with an young African woman in my Italian class about this subject.
She was saying in America no one cares about your race. You're an American.
That was not my experience at all.
But in Italy she hates that people always ask her where she's from or that some assume she's a prostitute because she's African.
It doesn't bother me that people ask me that question as I ask Italians all the time what city/area they're from. Many of my friends are from other parts of the country.
My white expat friends are constantly asked where they are from. I don't think it's a race thing. Most of the time it's a "you're not Italian and I'm curious to know why you would leave organized America for our crazy country" question.
It so interesting to me that even though both of us are black, our experiences here and in America were completely different.
This is a thoughtful and wonderful response!
And I'm also thinking that I should have proof-read that email before sending it. Those errors are horrendous.
Thank you very much, and I'm curious to see what your readers have to say on the subject
@ragazza: As a white American I'd say that in America, polite people pretend not to notice your race. If you're not used to our particular brand of racial neurosis, then I can see how someone might mistake that for not caring.
I don't know, Udara... Did you read the post? How about My of the other pieces on the blog? Because I've never written about how horrible life is in Europe for "the black woman". Mostly, because it is not. Everywhere has it's issued, my friend was asked to leave a restaurant in India because her blackness made the patrons uncomfortable. Does she regret going on walking aroung the world, "woe is me/ I's black and pitied"? Never. She wrapped herself in a bright pink sari and walked into the Tah Mahal next day. Talking about difficulties we "may" face is not the same as letting stereotypes rule your life. But do what you like....
Udara, we seem to still be speaking at cross purposes. Not one African immigrant was mistreated in this post. Nedra never mentions anyone mistreating her AT ALL in her letter; only about being asked out by old men, and her boyfriend freaking out at what HE THINKS they're thinking when they do so.
I then wrote about being hit on by a man who hits on everyone. It can be difficult to be an expat, anywhere, for anyone. I've done 7 countries in the last 12 years (living, working paying rent etc), and you always need a support network. That's really what this post is about: perspective and support. Not the horrible treatment of Africans.
Just the idea that you think my post is about 'the horrible treatment of Africans' leads me to believe you only read the title or you did that thing people do when they're listening without really listening. I believe you read the post. But somehow you still ended up with a version of 'poor us'. So perhaps I was the one who was unclear.
Again, this is about expat survival. Not the horrible treatment of Africans. That's something different entirely.
I have to chime in and say Udara, that Ieishah is right. Although my experience here presents its hardships (just like in America, but I'm used to a different kind or racism there), I really wouldn't change it for the world (could also have to do with my angry bf, lol).
But at the end of the day, it's your choice to make. Most days will be easy, fun, and help you grow. Others will suck, but being an expat is still a great experience.
Hey Udara, i had the same thinking as you before when it came to travelling in Europe (which is quite ironic as I live in England), but decided to bite the bullet and travel which i am glad i have done so.
I have found that reading other people's blogs is cool but you shouldn't take it as complete gospel. I have read good, bad and terrible stuff happening to black people abroad, but it wasn't until I travelled myself that I can have a real perspective.
Your own experience is what you should go by and even if some of them are bad, to generalise to a whole country is rather dangerous. In my all but brief experience out in Spain I enjoyed it immensely though was a bit taken aback at times, and would definitely go back. That goes for France and Austria.
Another thing to take into consideration is the country's history. Just by understanding where they come from in terms of race relations can does help when it comes to travelling.
The way I see it is that I am a walking textbook, non blacks may have a negative perception of you and your actions either reaffirm their thinking or changes it.
I have a friend in Spain who is Nigerian has managed to educate her colleagues about a lot of stuff they have said and done, plus deals with the catcalls by men on the street. Ultimately she is doing things in Spain and has not let her colour been a deterrant.
@Needra, i know you live south of Spain, but I would be more than happy to put you in contact with my friend who is in Madrid
@ieishah apologies for the long comment. Love your blogs (as always)
One of my Black English mates from our Village in rural Spain insists that he won't leave his house for a goo dfew days before and after Three Kings. Apparently all the locla kids follow him around for hours on end chanting 'Balthazar'and begging him for chocolates & sweets. They can be odd at times, the Spanish.
Rems!! "The way I see it is that I am a walking textbook, non blacks may have a negative perception of you and your actions either reaffirm it or changes it"
YES, Rems... YASSSS!
Tumbit, that is hilarious!!! Sad on one hand, and I'm sure, not so funny for your friend, but must look so comical. It's like a film! But I have a story somewhere on this blog of a woman who told me about seeing a black man on the metro in Barcelona for the first time as a child that was similar.
Ieshiah I think I have an official girl crushh on you, haha/jaja! I loved your response. It's very level headed, and loaded with the wealth of experience that you've had. Excellent post.
When I've spoken of moving abroad I've gotten so many different responses. They vary from the extremley positive to the down right dumbass.
I love your series on expat dating. It def gives me a laugh everytime I read it. What's the dating scene like for women in the 35 plus range? I'm a few years into that plus, and I'd love to hear about it. I'm sure you have some friends with some knowledge and I'd love to hear about it.
Again, brava for a great job.
Duuurty South
not directly related to this post, but I've been following your blog, tumblr, twitter for a while.
You Are The Shit.
that's all.
Doesn't matter where a gal goes, what colour she is, there will always be [some] men who want to 'try a ting' with her [as we say here]. Always. Men who want to come on to a gal in as rude a way as possible.
Doesn't make sense walking around wondering what others are thinking and why. People will think what they think.
@ Ieishah - my friend takes it all in good humor and maintains that in our village their is just good-natured curiosity as opposed to any bad feeling. He still says that in his 7 yrs in Spain he has not encountered any racism any worse than anywhere in the UK
I can't tell you how happy that pic of you and your girls makes me. I don't even know you all, but it's a site I really miss.
GG-- AGREED!
Tumbit-- I agree with your friend that the UK is waaaay racist. Also think it wouldn't hurt Spanish parents to reign their children in in situations like these. Honestly, Spain is changing. The kids should know.
Rose Anne-- Hey lady! Anytime you wanna come chill with us, you let me know. We'll even have a special party just for you. No. I'M SERIOUS.
I just saw an an interesting program about Nigerian women who work as prostitutes in Europe that made me think about this post. Here's the link: http://www.channel4.com/programmes/unreported-world/4od.
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